Dimasa women love to weave and wear! | Art & Culture | Nelive

Dimasa women love to weave and wear!

Aug 01, 2015 13:03
Assam
1503
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Weaving is an art which all Dimasa Females are excellent at. They weave clothes simple as well as of very high artistic designs. Most of the domestic requirements of clothes are met from the family looms. Spinning and weaving is confined only to the womenfolk and are considered as obligatory duties by the Dimasa women and girls. It is mandatory for girl to weave by herself the artistically design wedding clothes to put on herself at her marriages.

Dimasa Females weaves clothes with the help of traditional loom called “DAUPHANG”. The process of weaving is called “Daophang Dauba”. However only the materials like Shawls and bags are woven in JENGSTU, a type of loom wherein the yarn is tied on the hips and other end of the yarn is tied to the pillar of the house.

Bride carries the loom “Dauphang” to the in-laws house after marriage, not for the use of her in-laws but for her own personal use and it will be inherited by daughter or nearest female relatives belong to her own female clan “Jahdi”

Most of the clothes are woven from cotton yarn and only some specific clothes like Rithap are woven from “endi/eri silk” (called RIHENDI in Dimasa). Yet, the Dimasa women wove all the clothes from “endi/Eri Silk” (silk made from Endi silk worm) before the advent of cotton yarns.The colours they use for dyeing yarns are prepared by the Dimasa women themselves from the wild herbs (Gjaolai- red colour, Gishimlai- black colour etc)

Weaving was not commercialised by Dimasa women, rather woven for domestic use in the family. But today many of them have started weaving products commercially to earn livelihood or to supplement their income.

The Designs or the Rikhu which are woven in the Dimasa clothes are very unique. The various designs and patterns on the Dimasa clothes are made by tying the threads and rest part of the clothes are wove similar to any other community , So when you touch the Dimasa Design, It appears to be very thick and has a 3D look. Unlike Designs(Pari) of other community which is usually made of one or two colour but often one colour , the Dimasas adds three or more Colours. It means that the Dimasa Designs are multicoloured. 

However, the Designing of “Rikhu" (Design) differs from region to region. The Dimasas of Nagaon, Karbi Anglong districts of Assam and Dimapur region of Nagaland,weave with the help of "Shampor" (Flat Bamboo Stick) whose length is same as the breadth of cotton or thread inserted in the Loom (Dauphang) and their weaving process (Shampor eihi Daoba) is slightly Similar with Assamese way of designing their pari (Design) and on the other hand the Hill Dimasa of Dima Hasao Dist. use the "Gonshai" (Cylindrical Bamboo Stick) whose Length is same as the Shampor. The Weaving Style (Gonshai shaihi Daoba) of Hill Dimasa is very unique, difficult to weave and time-consuming. According to Jumeli Nunisa, a weaver from Dhansiri region, Assam, it takes almost 1-2 months to make a thick row of Rikhu on the clothes.

The design for females differs from the males, the designs (Rikhu) determines whether the clothes is for the males or for the females. Wearing of Male clothes by women or female clothes by men is considered as taboo.

Females clothing: 

1. RIJAMPHAIN: white colour cloth worn from chest to knees

2. RIJAMPHAIN BEREN (RAMAI): Chest wrapper with Stripes of Bright colours like white ,Green(sometimes deep blue) , Black, Yellow(sometimes orange) and red, Worn only in special occasions(marriage, Dance, Festivals) .

3. RIGU: Wrapper or Lower Garment Worn from Waist to ankle. it can be Of various colours.

4. RIKHAOSA: A Muffler either of Yellow, green or white in colour, worn above the Chest wrapper or shoulders. it can be also Taken by the males.

5. RIGU-SET: It is introduced recently due to influence of mainstream culture, It is a Dimasa mekhela Chadar, consisting of “Rigu" (Lower garment Worn from Waist to ankle.)  and "set" is cloth which is  same piece of Rigu that is draped like indian saree. It can be of any colour.

6. BATHORMAI: Kind of Rigu, With only Rmai Rikhu (or Rmai Design) therein.

 

Males clothing:

1. SGAOPHA (Phagri): Dimasa males wear turban in a head called “Phagri” or "Sgaopha", Phagri are of either green or yellow but on the occasion of marriages or dance, the bridegroom or dancer wears white phagri tied with red ribbon on the chin.

2. RIGDO: Short Muffler which can be of any colour worn by men.

3. RISHA: Short dhoti worn from waist to knee and sometimes taken as muffler also, Risha can be of different colours.

4. GAINTHAO: White Long Dhoti worn from Waist to Ankle worn only during marriages and dance.

5. RIKHAOSA: Long muffler taken by both men and women, it can be in the colours of white, green and yellow

6. RITHAP: Chaddar or Shawl worn by men usually made from Endi/Eri silk of Endi-silk worm. 

7. REMSHAU: Shawl only of colour either white or yellow with colourful design embedded in White background, this type of designs are found only on Remshau)

8. MAGONG: shawl of various colour.

Aug 01, 2015 13:03
Assam
1503
Share

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About Author

Anwesha Roy Choudhury    Ranchi, Jharkhand
Anwesha Roy Choudhury is a Masters in Mass Communication & Journalism from Tezpur Central University, Assam. Over the years as a development professional, she had firsthand experience in managing communication channels and taking active part in developing creative contents. Currently based in Jharkhand. Worked as documentation officer in Citizens Foundation and now Director of Health Initiatives, Resource India trying to bring out the positive change in health sector. 
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